Inulin as an effectiveness and safe ingredient in cosmetics

Nizioł-Łukaszewska, Zofia; Bujak, Tomasz; Wasilewski, Tomasz; Szmuc, Edyta

doi:10.2478/pjct-2019-0008

Abstract

Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus) and chicory (Cichorium intybus) are valuable pharmaceutical raw materials on account of their high content of inulin, a natural prebiotic. Inulin-rich plants are also increasingly employed in the formulation of cosmetic products. The paper presents the biological properties of aqueous and aqueous-ethanolic extracts of Jerusalem artichoke and chicory. The extracts have been found to have a high free radical scavenging ability, with the most beneficial antioxidant properties being observed for the aqueous-ethanolic extract of Jerusalem artichoke. Inulin isolated from both plant types is a safe and non-toxic raw material. Inulin added to model body wash gel formulations markedly reduces their potential to cause skin irritation and sensitization.

References

1. Elser, P. & Maibach, H. (2000). Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics. New York, USA: Taylor & Francis Group.
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
2. Barel, M. & Paye, M. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, 4th ed. Boca Raton, USA: 2014. Taylor & Francis Group. pp. 353–365.10.1201/b16716
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
3. Kiełtyka-Dadasiewicz, A. Sawicka, B. Bienia, B. & Krochmal-Marczak, B. (2014). Inulin as Product a Food, Feed, Pharmaceutical, Cosmetic and Energy. Polish J. Commodity Sci. 1, 18–26.
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
4. Saengthongpinit, W. & Sajanantakul, T. (2005). Influence of harvest time and storage temperature on characteristics of inulin from Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus L.) tubers. Postharvest Biol. Technol. 37, 93–100. DOI: doi.org/10.1016/j.postharvbio.2005.03.004.10.1016/j.postharvbio.2005.03.004
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
5. Franck, A. (2002). Technological functionality of inulin and oligofructose. Br. L. Nutr. 87, 287–291. DOI: doi.org/10.1079/BJN/2002550.10.1079/BJN/2002550
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
6. Chyc, M. & Ogonowski, J. (2014). Jerusalem artichoke as a valuable raw materal, especially for food, pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. Wiad. Chem. 68, 7–8.
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
7. Sobolewska S., Grela E.R., & Skomiał J. (2012). Inulina i jej oddziaływanie u ludzi i zwierząt. In A. Czech & R. Klebaniuk (Eds.), The use of flax and inulin in nutrition and food production. Lublin, Poland: Stowarzyszenie Rozwoju Regionalnego i Lokalnego „Progress”, 65–88. (in Polish).
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
8. Skiba, D. & Sawicka, B. (2016). Słonecznik bulwiasty (HelianthustuberosusL.) jako źródło substancji biologicznie czynnych o potencjale kosmetycznym. In A. Kiełtyka-Dadasiewicz (Eds.), Rośliny w nowoczesnej kosmetologii. Lublin, Poland: Wydawnictwo Akademickie Wyższej Szkoły Społeczno-Przyrodniczej w Lublinie, 65–76. (in Polish).
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
9. Mutanda, T., Mokoena, M. P., Olaniran, O., Wilhelmi, B.S. & Whiteley, C.G. (2014). Microbial enzymatic production and applications of short-chain fructooligosaccharides and inulooligosaccharides: Recent advances and current perspectives. J. Ind. Microbiol. Biotechnol. 41, 893–906, DOI: 10.1007/s10295-014-1452-1.10.1007/s10295-014-1452-124793124
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
10. Vijin, I. & Smeekens, S. (1999). Fructan more than a reserve carbohydrate? Plant Physiol. 120, 351–359.10.1104/pp.120.2.351
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
11. Anwar, M. A., Kralj, S., Van der Maarel, M. J. & Dijkhuizen, L. (2008). The probiotic Lactobacillus johnsonii NCC 533 produces high molecular-mass inulin from sucrose by using an inulosucrase enzyme. Appl. Environ. Microbiol. 74, 3426–3433, DOI: 10.1128/AEM.00377-08.10.1128/AEM.00377-08242302918408060
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
12. Bot, A., Erle, U., Vreeker, R. & Agterof, W.G.M. (2014). Influence of crystallization conditions on the large deformation rheology of inulin gels. Food Hydrocolloids. 18 (4), 547–556, DOI: 10.1016/j.foodhyd.2003.09.003.10.1016/j.foodhyd.2003.09.003
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
13. Lingyun, W., Jianhua, W., Xiaodong, Z., Da, T., Yalin, Y., Chenggang, C., Tianhua, F. & Fan, Z. (2007). Studies on the extracting technical conditions of inulin from Jerusalem artichoke tubers. J. Food Eng. 79, 1087–1093, DOI:doi.org/10.1016/j.jfoodeng.2006.03.028.10.1016/j.jfoodeng.2006.03.028
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
14. Chi, Z.M., Zhang, T., Cao, T.S., Liu, X.Y., Cui, W. & Zhao, C.H. (2011). Biotechnological potential of inulin for bioprocesses. Bioresour. Technol. 102, 4295–4303, DOI: doi.org/10.1016/j.biortech.2010.12.086.10.1016/j.biortech.2010.12.08621247760
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
15. Rossi, M., Corradini, C., Amaretti, A., Nicolini, M., Pompei, A., Zanoni, S. & Matteuzzi, D. (2005). Fermentation of fructooligosaccharides and inulin by bifidobacteria: a comparative study of pure and fecal cultures. Appl. Environ. Microbiol. 71, 6150–6158, DOI: 10.1128/AEM.71.10.6150-6158.2005.10.1128/AEM.71.10.6150-6158.2005126594216204533
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
16. Roberfroid, M.B. (1998). Prebiotics and synbiotics: concepts and nutritional properties. Br. J. Nutr. 80, 197–202.10.1017/S0007114500006024
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
17. Roberfroid, M.B., van Loo, J.A.E. & Gibson, G.R. (1998). The bifidogenic nature of chicory inulin and its hydrolysis products. J. Nutr. 128, 11–19.10.1093/jn/128.1.119430596
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
18. Schroeder, G. (2010). Nanotechnologia, kosmetyki chemia supramolekularna. Kostrzyn, Poland: Publisher Cursiva.
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
19. Brand-Williamis, W., Cuvelier, M. & Berset, C. (1995) Use of a free radical method to evaluate antioxidant activity. LWT Food Sci. Technol. 28, 25–30. DOI: 10.1016/S0023-6438(95)80008-5.10.1016/S0023-6438(95)80008-5
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
20. Re, R., Pellegrini, N., Protegente, A., Pannala, A., Yang, M. & Rice-Evans, C. (1999). Antioxidant activity applying and improved ABTS radical cation decolorization assay. Free Radic. Biol. Med. 26, 1231–1237, DOI: 10.1016/S0891-5849(98)00315-3.10.1016/S0891-5849(98)00315-3
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
21. Bartosz, G. (2003). Total antioxidant capacity. Elsevier Science (USA).10.1016/S0065-2423(03)37010-6
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
22. Draelos, Z.D. & Dover, J.S. (2011). Kosmeceutyki, 2nd ed. Wrocław, Poland: Elsevier Urban & Partner. 182–185.
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
23. Bartosz, G. (2004). Druga twarz tlenu. Wolne rodniki w przyrodzie. Warszawa, Poland: Wydaw. Nauk. PWN. (in Polish)
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
24. Lupo, M.P. (2001). Antioxidants and vitamins in cosmetics, Clin. Dermatol. 19 (4), 467–473.10.1016/S0738-081X(01)00188-2
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
25. Katsube, T., Tabata, H., Ohta, Y., Yamasaki, Y., Anuurad, E., Shiwaku, K. & Yamane, Y. (2004). Screening for antioxidant activity in edible plant products: Comparison of low-density lipoprotein oxidation assay, DPPH radical scavenging assay and Folin-Ciocalteu assay. J. Agric. Food Chem. 52 (8), 2391–2396, DOI: 10.1021/jf035372g.10.1021/jf035372g
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
26. Potargowicz, E. & Szerszenowicz, E. (2006). Vegetal polyphenols in cosmetics, Pol. J. Cosmetol. 9 (2), 70–76.
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
27. Linton, S., Davies, M.J. & Dean, R.T. (2001). Protein oxidation and ageing. Exp. Gerontol. 36 (9), 1503–1518.10.1016/S0531-5565(01)00136-X
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
28. Evans, M.D., Dizdaroglu, M. & Cooke, S. (2004). Oxidative DNA damage and disease: induction, repair and significance. Mutat. Res. 567 (1), 1–61, DOI: 10.1016/j.mrrev.2003.11.001.10.1016/j.mrrev.2003.11.001
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
29. Briganti, S. & Picardo, M. (2003). Antioxidant activity, lipid peroxidation and skin diseases. What’s new. J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol.Venereol. 17 (6), 663–669, DOI: 10.1046/j.1468--3083.2003.00751.x.10.1046/j.1468--3083.2003.00751.x
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
30. Relhan, V., Gupta, S.K., Dayal, S., Pandey, R. & Lal, H. (2002). Blood thiols and malondialdehyde levels in psoriasis. J. Dermatol. 29 (7), 399–403, DOI: 10.1111/j.1346-8138.2002.tb00293.x.10.1111/j.1346-8138.2002.tb00293.x
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
31. Jędrzejko, K. & Wolszczyk, W. (2006). Naturalne, krajowe zasoby surowców roślinnych o właściwościach kosmetycznych – możliwości ich wykorzystania w przemyśle kosmetycznym i obrocie międzynarodowym. Herba Polonica. 52 (3), 33–34. (in Polish).
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
32. Mielczarek, C. & Brzezińska, E. (2000). Flavonoids in cosmetics and cosmetology. Part 1. Biological properties of flavonoids. Pol. J. Cosmetol. 1, 11–12.
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
33. Kohlmünzer, S. (2013). Farmakognozja. Warszawa, Poland: Wydawnictwo Lekarskie PZWL. (in Polish).
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
34. Kim,Y., Faqih, M.N. & Wang, S. (2001). Factors affecting gel formation of inulin. Carbohydrate Polimers. 46, 135–145, DOI: 10.1016/S0144-8617(00)00296-4.10.1016/S0144-8617(00)00296-4
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
35. Kim, K.H., Chung, C.B., Kim, Y.H., Kim, K.S., Han, C.S. & Kim, C.H. (2005). Cosmeceutical properties of levan produced by Zymomonasmobilis. J. Cosmet. Sci. 56, 395–406, DOI: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00314_2.x.10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00314_2.x
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
36. Cieślik, E. & Gębusia, A. (2010). Topinambur (Helianthustuberosus L.) – bulwa o właściwościach prozdrowotnych. Postępy Nauk Rol. 3, 91–103. (in Polish).
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
37. Liu, C., Wang, A. & Li, Y. (2010). Determination of antioxidation of polysaccharides in Tussilagofarfara. The Chinese J. Modern Appl. Pharmacy. 28(10), 886–889.
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
38. Deneva, A., Petkova, N., Ivanov, I., Sirakov, B., Vrancheva, R. & Pavlova, A. (2014). Determination of biologically active substances in taproot of common chicory (Cichoriumintybus L.). Scientific Bulletin. Series F. Biotechnologies. 18, 124–129.
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
39. O’Brien, J., Wilson, I., Orton, T. & Pognan, F. (2000). Investigation of the Alamar Blue (resazurin) fluorescent dye for the assessment of mammalian cell cytotoxicity. Eur. J. Biochem. 267, 5421–5426, DOI: 10.1046/j.1432-1327.2000.01606.x.10.1046/j.1432-1327.2000.01606.x10951200
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
40. Kwack, K. & Lynch, R.G. (2000). A New Non-radioactive Method for IL-2 Bioassay. Mol. Cells. 5, 575–578, DOI: 10.1007/s10059-000-0575-6.10.1007/s10059-000-0575-611101150
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
41. Bujak, T., Wasilewski, T. & Nizioł-Łukaszewska, Z. (2015). Role of macromolecules in the safety of use of body wash cosmetics. Colloids Surf. B. 1 (135), 497–503, DOI: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2015.07.051.10.1016/j.colsurfb.2015.07.05126291586
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
42. Farn, R. J. (2006). Chemistry and Technology of Surfactants. Oxford, UK: Blackwell Publishing.10.1002/9780470988596
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
43. Rosen, M.J. (2006). Surfactants and Interfacial Phenomena. 3rd ed. New York, USA: John Wiley& Sons.
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
44. Abe, M. & Scamehorn, J.F. (2005). Mixed Surfactant Systems. 2nd ed. New York, USA: Marcel Dekker.
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
45. Nielsen, G.D., Nielsen, J.B., Andersen, K.E. & Grandjean, P. (2000). Effect of industrial detergents on the barrier function of human skin. Int. J. Occup. Environ. Health. 6(2), 138–142, DOI: 10.1179/oeh.2000.6.2.138.10.1179/oeh.2000.6.2.13810828143
Open DOI Search in Google Scholar Back to article
46. Faucher, J.A. & Goddard, E.D. (1978). Interaction of keratinous substrates with sodium lauryl sulfate. I. Sorption. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 29, 323–337.
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
47. Moore, P.N., Puvvada, S. & Blankschtein, D.J. (2003). Challenging the surfactant monomer skin penetration model: penetration of sodium dodecyl sulfate micelles into the epidermis. J. Cosmet. Sci. 54, 29–49.
Search in Google Scholar Back to article
48. McFadden, J.P., Holloway, D.B., Whittle, E.G. & Basketter, D.A. (2000). Benzalkonium chloride neutralizes the irritant effect of sodium lauryl sulfate. Contact Dermatitis. 43, 264–266.10.1034/j.1600-0536.2000.043005264.x11016666
Search in Google Scholar Back to article

Inulin as an effectiveness and safe ingredient in cosmetics

Abstract

Paradigm

My account