Abstract
Biodiversity-positive transformative change requires transformations at the societal level and transitions in specific sub-systems directed at addressing the indirect drivers of biodiversity loss. Despite the recognised need to target the sectors most responsible for nature’s decline, the dynamics of biodiversity loss and biodiversity-positive transformative change in the textile, apparel, and fashion sector have never been directly studied by academic contributors. This explorative study maps direct and indirect drivers of biodiversity loss in fashion’s supply chain activities and identifies barriers for transformative change to reflect on the potential direction of a biodiversity-positive transformation of the sector. We base our mapping on the qualitative thematic content analysis of semi-structured interviews with experts from the fashion sector in Italy and grey literature publications. Our results suggest that land-use change due to raw material production is the direct driver to which the industry contributes the most, while economic indirect drivers are the most influential for determining the intensity and distribution of the direct drivers. We identify seven barriers to biodiversity-positive transformative change: i) the ideology of perpetual growth, ii) fashion consumerism, iii) telecouplings, iv) rigid political boundaries, v) uncoordinated institutions and policies, vi) lack of understanding, human capital and measuring, and vii) poor availability of biodiversity-positive technologies. Moreover, we reflect on the direction of transformative change by addressing these drivers beyond panaceas, simple interventions, and single governance levels. Finally, we identify the absence of attention to power relations and equity as a potential obstacle to biodiversity-positive transformative change in fashion. Rather than a systematic and conclusive research endeavour, this study must be seen as a starting point from which further discussions can be developed to promote a transformative governance of biodiversity in fashion.