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Comparison of the Pilling Resistance of Linen and Hemp Woven Fabrics Cover

Comparison of the Pilling Resistance of Linen and Hemp Woven Fabrics

Open Access
|May 2025

Figures & Tables

Fig. 1.

Plan of weave
Plan of weave

Fig. 2.

Weaving loom Itema 9500
Weaving loom Itema 9500

Fig. 3.

Schematic diagram of finishing process and additional technological operations
Schematic diagram of finishing process and additional technological operations

Fig. 4.

Martindale abrasion and pilling tester MESDAN-LAB, Code 2561E (SDL AT-LAS, London, England)
Martindale abrasion and pilling tester MESDAN-LAB, Code 2561E (SDL AT-LAS, London, England)

Fig. 5.

Graph of pilling performance of unfinished and finished fabrics investigated
Graph of pilling performance of unfinished and finished fabrics investigated

Fig. 6.

Graph of pilling performance of investigated finished fabrics before and after treatment
Graph of pilling performance of investigated finished fabrics before and after treatment

Fig. 7

Diagram of the mass loss of the investigated fabrics with different types of finishing
Diagram of the mass loss of the investigated fabrics with different types of finishing

Fig. 7

ANOVA table for the influence of pilling resistance on the raw material and type of finishing
ANOVA table for the influence of pilling resistance on the raw material and type of finishing

Fig. 8.

Confidence intervals of pilling resistance for different raw materials
Confidence intervals of pilling resistance for different raw materials

Fig. 9.

Confidence intervals of pilling resistance for different types of finishing: (1) unfinished fabric;,(2) finished fabric;(3) finished fabric after enzymatic treatment
Confidence intervals of pilling resistance for different types of finishing: (1) unfinished fabric;,(2) finished fabric;(3) finished fabric after enzymatic treatment

Grade of pilling for finished fabrics before and after enzymatic treatment

Raw materialNumber of samplesNumber of cycles
125 cycles500 cycles1000 cycles2000 cycles
Expert 1Expert 2Expert 1Expert 2Expert 1Expert 2Expert 1Expert 2
Finished linen fabric before treatment14.04.03.03.02.52.52.02.0
24.04.03.03.02.52.52.02.0
34.04.03.03.02.52.52.02.0
Finished hemp fabric before treatment14.54.54.04.04.04.03.03.0
24.04.04.04.04.04.03.53.5
35.05.04.04.04.04.03.53.5
Finished blended fabric before treatment14.04.03.53.53.03.02.52.5
24.04.03.53.53.03.02.52.5
34.04.03.53.53.03.02.52.5
Finished linen fabric after treatment14.04.03.53.53.53.53.03.0
24.04.03.53.53.03.03.03.0
34.04.03.53.53.03.03.03.0
Finished hemp fabric after treatment14.54.54.54.54.04.04.04.0
24.54.54.54.54.04.04.04.0
34.54.54.54.54.04.04.04.0
Finished blended fabric after treatment14.54.54.04.03.53.53.03.0
24.54.54.04.03.53.53.03.0
34.54.54.04.03.53.53.03.0

Visual evaluation of the pilling test

GradeDescription
5Remains unchanged.
4Partially formed or slightly fluffed-up pills
3Moderate pilling or pills of various sizes cover a section of the sample’s surface.
2Prominent pilling or pills of various sizes cover a significant amount of the sample’s surface.
1Extremely noticeable pilling or pills of various sizes encompass the entire sample’s surface.

Raised hypothesis for pilling resistance

Null hypothesis (H0)Alternate hypothesis (Ha)
There is no difference in the average yield for any raw materials.There is a difference in the average yield by raw materials.
There is no difference in the average yield depending on the type of finishing.There is a difference in the average yield for any type of finishing.
The effect of one independent variable on the average yield does not depend on the effect of the other independent variable.There is an interaction effect between the group of materials and the type of finishing on the average yield.

Structural parameters of fabrics examined

FabricThread systemRaw materialLinear density of yarnSetting of unfinished fabric, dm−1Setting of finished fabric, dm−1
LinenWarpLinen28 tex220251
WeftLinen28 tex203234
HempWarpHemp28 tex220249
WeftHemp28 tex203237
Linen/HempWarpLinen28 tex220252
WeftHemp28 tex203235

Samples of chemically treated finished fabrics during the pilling resistance test after a specific number of cycles

Number of cycles0 cycles500 cycles2000 cycles
Finished linen fabric after treatment
Finished hemp fabric after treatment
Finished blended fabric after treatment

Samples of unfinished and finished fabrics during the pilling resistance test after a specific number of cycles

Number of cycles0 cycles500 cycles2000 cycles
Unfinished linen fabric
Finished linen fabric
Unfinished hemp fabric
Finished hemp fabric
Unfinished blended fabric
Finished blended fabric

Grade of pilling for both unfinished and finished fabrics

Raw materialNumber of samplesNumber of cycles
125 cycles500 cycles1000 cycles2000 cycles
Expert 1Expert 2Expert 1Expert 2Expert 1Expert 2Expert 1Expert 2
Unfinished linen13.53.52.52.52.02.01.01.0
23.53.52.02.02.02.01.01.0
33.03.02.02.02.02.01.01.0
Unfinished hemp14.04.03.53.53.03.02.02.0
24.04.03.53.53.03.02.02.0
34.04.03.53.53.03.02.02.0
Unfinished linen/hemp13.53.53.03.02.52.52.02.0
23.53.53.03.02.52.52.02.0
33.53.53.03.02.52.52.02.0
Finished linen14.04.03.03.02.52.52.02.0
24.04.03.03.02.52.52.02.0
34.04.03.03.02.52.52.02.0
Finished hemp14.54.54.04.04.04.03.03.0
24.04.04.04.04.04.03.53.5
35.05.04.04.04.04.03.53.5
Finished linen/hemp14.04.03.53.53.03.02.52.5
24.04.03.53.53.03.02.52.5
34.04.03.53.53.03.02.52.5
DOI: https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2025-0003 | Journal eISSN: 2300-7354 | Journal ISSN: 1230-3666
Language: English
Page range: 27 - 39
Published on: May 28, 2025
Published by: Łukasiewicz Research Network, Institute of Biopolymers and Chemical Fibres
In partnership with: Paradigm Publishing Services
Publication frequency: Volume open

© 2025 Eglė Kumpikaitė, Darshan Puttaswamy, Stasė Petraitienė, published by Łukasiewicz Research Network, Institute of Biopolymers and Chemical Fibres
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0 License.