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Application of Gan Embroidery (Yuzhang Embroidery) in Neo-Chinese-style Woolen Clothing with the Inheritance of Intangible Cultural Heritage Cover

Application of Gan Embroidery (Yuzhang Embroidery) in Neo-Chinese-style Woolen Clothing with the Inheritance of Intangible Cultural Heritage

Open Access
|Oct 2024

Figures & Tables

Table 1.

Typical Gan Embroidery Techniques

NameBada Shanren Ink Painting (Deer Picture)Representative Work “The Horse and the Rider”Representative Work “Eagle in an Empty Valley”
Artwork graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_001.png 1 graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_002.png 2 graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_003.png 3
DescriptionPrimarily employs floating stitches and flat stitches, using dozens of colors of ink silk threads with various thickness and shades. The artwork displays distinct layers, replicating the nuances of color and the profound artistic conception found in the original painting, enhancing its three-dimensionality.Utilizes hairpin and scattered overlay stitches, employing silk threads to create a second reworking of the artwork, resulting in a simple and bold composition.Utilizes the unique Gan Embroidery stitching techniques, along with dozens of silk thread colors with varying thickness and shades for a second reworking of the artwork. The artwork exhibits clear layers and accurately conveys color variations, evoking a natural and deep artistic ambiance. It possesses a natural, elegant, and refreshing aesthetic.
Table 2.

Illustrations of Seed Stitch, Lock Stitch, and Random Stitch Techniques

TypeStep 1Step 2Step 3Example
Seed Stitch graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_004.png
First, start the needle, hold the thread with the left hand, and wrap the thread around the needle a couple of times.
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_005.png
Insert the needle beside the starting point, on the right side of the upward thread.
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_006.png
The left hand keeps the thread tight against the fabric, then pull out the needle to create a small dot.
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_007.png
Lock Stitch graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_008.png
Start the needle at any point, beside the starting point, and create a thread loop on the fabric's surface. Then, start the needle, securing the loop.
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_009.png
Drop the needle at the starting point of the second stitch to form a second ring, then start the needle to fasten the second ring; and so on. Embroider according to the pattern.
N/A graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_010.png
Random Stitch graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_011.png
Arrange the specific stitches according to the shape of the embroidery pattern, and complete the first layer of stitches.
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_012.png
On the basis of the first layer, use different colors of thread to perform overlapping stitches.
N/A graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_013.png

[i] Source: Drawn by the Author

Table 3.

Illustration of Overlay Stitch Techniques

TypeStep 1Step 2Step 3Example
Single Overlay Stitch graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_014.png
Begin by embroidering the center of the pattern. Proceed with the right half, alternating between long and short stitches, embroidering the right side. Once the right half is complete, embroider the left half.
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_015.png
After completing the outermost layer, add a second layer with different color threads. Each stitch should align with the previous layer's long and short stitches.
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_016.png
Create a third layer in a similar fashion using alternating long and short stitches to fill the pattern.
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_017.png
Double Overlay Stitch graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_018.png
In the first batch, start the needle from the center and ensure even stitches on the pattern's edge. Maintain straight stitches with no slanting. The thickness of the stitches should be consistent, and the texture should be uniform.
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_019.png
In the second batch, use a darker color than the first batch. Start the needle at the location where the first batch's stitches fall. The distance between stitches should match the thickness of the lines.
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_020.png
In the third batch, start the needle at the location where the second batch's stitches fall. Alternate between long and short stitches and use even thicker thread to completely fill

[i] Source: Drawn by the Author

Fig. 1.

M essential’s Shirt1

http://www.360doc.com/content/23/0115/22/49854881_1063813878.shtml, 2024-06-29

Fig. 2.

2021 Chu Heting Xiang “Wenchat” Series

https://baijiahao.baidu.com/s?id=1695369526300962631&wfr=spider&for=pc, 2024-06-29

Fig. 3.

Gaiya Legend 2022 Spring/Summer Collection “Qiankun Fangyi”

https://m.hnmdtv.com/sy/092021_86644.html, 2024-06-29

Fig. 5.

Stand-up Collar Cape and Modified Horse-Face Skirt

http://china.cnr.cn/xwwgf/201403/t20140323_515138885.shtml, 2024-06-29

Fig. 6.

Shenyi New Neo-Chinese Woolen Coat

https://mms2.baidu.com/it/u=344190897,1878927431&fm=253&app=138&f=JPEGw=500&h=672, 2024-06-29

Fig. 7.

Moyu New Neo-Chinese Woolen Coat

https://mms0.baidu.com/it/u=2379786576,2897283807&fm=253&app=138&f=JPEGw=500&h=500, 2024-06-29

Table 4.

Examples of Individual Part Applications in this Study

Sleeve Sections graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_021.png
right lower sleeve and left sleeve cap
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_022.png
sleeve elbow
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_023.png
sleeve cap and sleeve bottom
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_024.png
cuff
Collar Sections graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_025.png
collar facing (lapel)
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_026.png
collar body (lapel)
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_027.png
collar body (stand collar)
Garment Body Sections graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_028.png
right front chest
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_029.png
left and right front chests
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_030.png
waist
Lower hem placket parts graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_031.png
lower right hem
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_032.png
left and right lower hem
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_033.png
upper right end placket
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_034.png
right placket

[i] Source: Drawn by the Author

Table 5.

Examples of Multiple-Part Combinations in this Study

Two-Part Combinations graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_035.png
Sleeve and Garment Body
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_036.png
Sleeve and Cuff
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_037.png
Sleeve and Hem
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_038.png
Front Closure and Cuff
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_039.png
Front Closure and Sleeve
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_040.png
Front Closure and Collar
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_041.png
Garment Body and Hem
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_042.png
Garment Body and Cuff
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_043.png
Garment Body and Hem
Multiple-Part Combinations graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_044.png
Collar, Sleeve, and Hem
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_045.png
Collar, Garment Body, and Cuff
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_046.png
Collar, Front Closure, and Cuff
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_047.png
Front Closure, Cuff, and Sleeve
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_048.png
Front Closure, Sleeve, and Collar
graphic/j_ftee-2024-0028_ingr_049.png
Front Closure, Cuff, and Hem

[i] Source: Drawn by the Author

DOI: https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2024-0028 | Journal eISSN: 2300-7354 | Journal ISSN: 1230-3666
Language: English
Page range: 15 - 26
Published on: Oct 30, 2024
Published by: Łukasiewicz Research Network-Łódź Institute of Technology
In partnership with: Paradigm Publishing Services
Publication frequency: Volume open

© 2024 Yanping Lin, Hongkun Li, Ying Dai, Zhenzhen Zhang, Chen Yang, Liyang Zhang, published by Łukasiewicz Research Network-Łódź Institute of Technology
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0 License.