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Design Expression of “Chinese-style” Costumes in the Context of Globalization

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe
Volume 31 (2023): Issue 2 (July 2023)
By:
Open Access
|Jul 2023

Figures & Tables

Fig. 1.

Ru skirt composed of short jacket and long dress (Picture from Jiangnan University Folk Costume Museum, author’s collection)
Ru skirt composed of short jacket and long dress (Picture from Jiangnan University Folk Costume Museum, author’s collection)

Fig. 2.

Shenyi dress (Pictures from Hunan Museum, author’s collection)
Shenyi dress (Pictures from Hunan Museum, author’s collection)

Fig. 3.

Qipao (Pictures from Jiangnan University Folk Costume Museum, author’s collection)
Qipao (Pictures from Jiangnan University Folk Costume Museum, author’s collection)

Fig. 4.

From left to right: ghatpot, gauze, silk, and satin (Photographed by the author, Ran Xu, Yulai Li, author’s collection)
From left to right: ghatpot, gauze, silk, and satin (Photographed by the author, Ran Xu, Yulai Li, author’s collection)

Fig. 5.

Traditional Chinese clothing craft (author’s collection)
Traditional Chinese clothing craft (author’s collection)

Fig. 6.

The use of traditional Chinese clothing design elements by the four “Chinese-style” enterprises (Drawn by author)
The use of traditional Chinese clothing design elements by the four “Chinese-style” enterprises (Drawn by author)

Fig. 7.

Mean values of traditional Chinese clothing colors (Drawn by author)
Mean values of traditional Chinese clothing colors (Drawn by author)

Fig. 8.

Shiatzy Chen examples of traditional Chinese color (Pictures from Shiatzy Chen, author’s collection)
Shiatzy Chen examples of traditional Chinese color (Pictures from Shiatzy Chen, author’s collection)

Fig. 9.

Mean values of traditional Chinese clothing fabrics (Drawn by author)
Mean values of traditional Chinese clothing fabrics (Drawn by author)

Fig. 10.

Pictures from TANGY (Pictures from TANGY, author’s collection)
Pictures from TANGY (Pictures from TANGY, author’s collection)

Fig. 11.

Mean values of traditional Chinese clothing crafts (Drawn by author)
Mean values of traditional Chinese clothing crafts (Drawn by author)

Fig. 12.

Photo from TANGY (Picture from TANGY, author’s collection)
Photo from TANGY (Picture from TANGY, author’s collection)

Fig. 13.

Mean values of traditional Chinese clothing silhouettes (Drawn by author)
Mean values of traditional Chinese clothing silhouettes (Drawn by author)

Fig. 14.

Sample profile of the four enterprises’ Chinese Design Elements (Pictures from TANGY, Shiatzy Chen, Shanghai Tang, Shangxia, author’s collection)
Sample profile of the four enterprises’ Chinese Design Elements (Pictures from TANGY, Shiatzy Chen, Shanghai Tang, Shangxia, author’s collection)

Fig. 15.

Mean values of traditional Chinese silhouettes (Drawn by author)
Mean values of traditional Chinese silhouettes (Drawn by author)

Fig. 16.

Examples of Chinese style element design details (Pictures from Shanghai Tang, Shiatzy Chen, Shangxia, TANGY, author’s collection)
Examples of Chinese style element design details (Pictures from Shanghai Tang, Shiatzy Chen, Shangxia, TANGY, author’s collection)

Traditional Chinese Design Elements

Texture

  • The fabrics used for Chinese clothing are usually luxurious and gorgeous so as to present their nobility.

  • The fabrics are mainly natural fibers (such as linen, cotton, and silk).

Form

  • Influenced by Confucianism, traditional Chinese clothing culture humanizes external and natural costumes.

  • It borrows ideas from the silhouettes of the Shenyi dress, Ru skirt, Qipao and Shan jacket.

  • Straight cuts and flat costume structure are adopted to conform to human body features.

  • Some common features of these robes include flamboyant silks, a loose A-line cut, decorative sashes, and varying the front or side closure and side slits.

Color

  • Influenced by the theories of Yin and Yang and the Five Elements, five colors are used in traditional clothing, namely, blue, red, black, white and yellow.

  • The use of contrasting colors is a major characteristic of traditional Chinese coloring.

  • Dark colors are mostly honored and light colors are secondly honored. Different colors represent different seasons.

  • Dyes are mainly natural minerals and plant dyes.

Craft

  • Decorative means consist of several traditional crafts including edge piping, inlaying, piping, winding and embroidering.

  • The main forms of expression are brocade, printing and dyeing, embroidering and Kesi (Chinese silk tapestry with cut designs).

  • Stylized characters are used as motifs for gilding or embroidery.

  • Symbolic meanings of other floral, fruit, plant, and insect motifs were developed over time and used in textiles, porcelain, sculpture, and furniture.

A profile analysis of four Chinese-style enterprises

EnterprisesBrand ConceptsDesign StylesOverseas Shops
Shanghai TangLuxury brand “created by China”Chinese silhouettes, Chinese decorationMilan, Yangon, Singapore
Shiatzy ChenHighlighting Chinese craft aesthetics. Integrating eastern and western cultures.Western silhouettes, Chinese decorationTokyo, Kuala Lumpur, Paris
ShangxiaPaying attention to elements such as traditional and modern, eastern and western, and human and nature. Interpreting the beauty of balance in opposition.Almost no decoration. Mainly pure colors. Presenting Chinese styles by silhouette and conception.Singapore, Paris
TANGYPaying attention to original design. Integrating brand concept of “peace, health, and beauty” and the harmonious realm of “unity of heaven and human beings” into all aspects of fashion design and development.Basic styles. Patterns frequently used. Highlighting natural and comfortable fabrics.Paris
DOI: https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2023-0019 | Journal eISSN: 2300-7354 | Journal ISSN: 1230-3666
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Language: English
Page range: 82 - 91
Published on: Jul 4, 2023
Published by: Łukasiewicz Research Network, Institute of Biopolymers and Chemical Fibres
In partnership with: Paradigm Publishing Services
Publication frequency: 6 times per year
Keywords:
ethnic dress,
fashion design,
China clothing,
cultural interchange
Related subjects:
Business and economics,
Business management,
Business informatics,
Process management,
Industrial chemistry,
Cellulose, paper and textiles,
Polymer science and technology,
Materials sciences,
Biomaterials and natural materials

© 2023 Chunhui Song, Haiying Zhao, Aidong Men, Xiaoyue Liang, published by Łukasiewicz Research Network, Institute of Biopolymers and Chemical Fibres
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0 License.

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