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Fabric Composition and Wearability Analysis of Zhuanghua Cover

Fabric Composition and Wearability Analysis of Zhuanghua

Open Access
|Dec 2022

Figures & Tables

Fig. 1

Schematic diagrams of subdivided varieties of Zhaunghua. Figures (a), (b) and (f) are in the collection of the Nanjing Yun Brocade Research Institute, Nanjing 210000, China. Figures (d) and (e) are in the collection of the Palace Museum, Beijing 100000, China. Figure (c) is a reproduction from the book Nanjing Yun Brocade (Dai J, 2009)
Schematic diagrams of subdivided varieties of Zhaunghua. Figures (a), (b) and (f) are in the collection of the Nanjing Yun Brocade Research Institute, Nanjing 210000, China. Figures (d) and (e) are in the collection of the Palace Museum, Beijing 100000, China. Figure (c) is a reproduction from the book Nanjing Yun Brocade (Dai J, 2009)

Fig. 2

(a) Portrait of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty in Zhuanghua satin, (b) portrait of Empress Xiaocheng, wife of emperor Kangxi, in Zhuanghua satin. Source: The Palace Museum, Beijing 100000, China
(a) Portrait of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty in Zhuanghua satin, (b) portrait of Empress Xiaocheng, wife of emperor Kangxi, in Zhuanghua satin. Source: The Palace Museum, Beijing 100000, China

Fig. 3

(a) structural model of lamella, (b) structural model of filé
(a) structural model of lamella, (b) structural model of filé

Fig. 4

(a) Zhuanghua satin woven with gilt paper lamella (gold-inclusive rate of gold foil is 99%). (b) Zhuanghua satin woven with gilt paper filé (gold-inclusive rate of gold foil is 99%). (c) Zhuanghua satin woven with alloyed paper lamella. (d) Zhuanghua satin woven with filé composed of a lamella of polyester material. Source: Nanjing Shengshijinxiu Brocade Weaving Limited Company, Nanjing 210049, China
(a) Zhuanghua satin woven with gilt paper lamella (gold-inclusive rate of gold foil is 99%). (b) Zhuanghua satin woven with gilt paper filé (gold-inclusive rate of gold foil is 99%). (c) Zhuanghua satin woven with alloyed paper lamella. (d) Zhuanghua satin woven with filé composed of a lamella of polyester material. Source: Nanjing Shengshijinxiu Brocade Weaving Limited Company, Nanjing 210049, China

Fig. 5

(a) physical image of peacock feather thread, (b) enlarged image of peacock feather thread, (c) Zhuanghua satin with peacock feather thread. Source: Nanjing Shengshijinxiu Brocade Weaving Limited Company, Nanjing 210049, China
(a) physical image of peacock feather thread, (b) enlarged image of peacock feather thread, (c) Zhuanghua satin with peacock feather thread. Source: Nanjing Shengshijinxiu Brocade Weaving Limited Company, Nanjing 210049, China

Fig. 6

(a) Fabric weave of Kuduan, (b) fabric weave of Zhijin & Kuduan, (c) fabric weave of Zhijin & Kujin, (d) fabric weave of Zhuanghua satin□: Weft interlacing point. ▪: Warp interlacing point. ▴: Binding warp interlacing point
(a) Fabric weave of Kuduan, (b) fabric weave of Zhijin & Kuduan, (c) fabric weave of Zhijin & Kujin, (d) fabric weave of Zhuanghua satin□: Weft interlacing point. ▪: Warp interlacing point. ▴: Binding warp interlacing point

Fig. 7

(a) Schematic diagrams of small drawloom, Source: Tiangong Kaiwu, Ming dynasty, 1368–1644 AD (Song YX, 1637), (b) large drawloom, Source: The Nanjing Yun Brocade Research Institute, Nanjing 210000, China
(a) Schematic diagrams of small drawloom, Source: Tiangong Kaiwu, Ming dynasty, 1368–1644 AD (Song YX, 1637), (b) large drawloom, Source: The Nanjing Yun Brocade Research Institute, Nanjing 210000, China

Fig. 8

(a) Fabric weave of plain satin, (b) fabric weave of Zhuanghua satin
(a) Fabric weave of plain satin, (b) fabric weave of Zhuanghua satin

Fig. 9

Moisture permeability and air permeability of samples
Moisture permeability and air permeability of samples

Fig. 10

Stretching resilience and crease recovery property of samples, (a) breaking force of samples, (b) elongation at break of samples, (c) crease recovery angle of samples
Stretching resilience and crease recovery property of samples, (a) breaking force of samples, (b) elongation at break of samples, (c) crease recovery angle of samples

Fig. 11

Stiffness, anti-fuzzing property and anti-pilling property of samples. (a) flexural rigidity of samples, (b) grade of anti-fuzzing and anti-pilling
Stiffness, anti-fuzzing property and anti-pilling property of samples. (a) flexural rigidity of samples, (b) grade of anti-fuzzing and anti-pilling

Test results of shape preservation property

Samples codeStretch resilienceCrease recovery property
Breaking force (N)Elongation at break (%)Crease recovery angle (°)
Warp directionWeft directionWarp directionWeft directionWarp directionWeft direction
A1954.31628.420.014.7114.879.2
A2946.21623.720.512.2111.871.4
A3974.51644.020.113.9116.782.5
B1965.21721.220.210.397.889.2
B2936.81718.319.912.591.087.0
B3984.91759.721.19.996.891.4
a11021.31860.222.97.791.2108.8
a21003.41821.123.810.087.4107.6
a31063.61871.424.510.893.8114.0
b11019.71738.722.49.493.5113.8
b2996.91711.421.49.592.7111.9
b31025.41744.623.111.093.5119.9

Test results of appearance preservation property

Samples codeBending behaviourAnti-fuzzing and anti-pilling resistance
Flexural rigidityAnti-fuzzing gradeAnti-pilling grade
Warp directionWeft direction
A132.84321.53.5
A231.04212.03.5
A337.04981.53.5
B177.06162.03.0
B272.05772.03.0
B379.06292.53.0
a126.01021.01.5
a224.0971.01.0
a339.01251.01.5
b137.0681.01.5
b231.0651.01.0
b345.0701.01.0

Detailed parameters of samples

Sample codeWeight of fabric (g m−2)Thickness (mm)
A1241.80.41±0.12
A2238.20.39±0.10
A3243.60.42±0.13
B1292.70.57±0.37
B2288.30.52±0.31
B3295.10.58±0.35
a1134.60.35
a2132.10.34
a3135.20.36
b1116.90.22
b2113.80.22
b3117.30.23

Detailed Parameters of Yarns

Sample codeMeasured yarn fineness/tex
WarpGround weftBrocading weft/SirongBrocading weft/gilt paper filé
A13.529.5 (7)41±0.556 (2)
A23.529.5 (7)41±0.556 (2)
A33.529.5 (7)41±0.556 (2)
B13.518.2 (5)41±0.556 (2)
B23.518.2 (5)41±0.556 (2)
B33.518.2 (5)41±0.556 (2)
a13.529.5 (7)/
a23.529.5 (7)/
a33.529.5 (7)/
b13.518.2 (5)/
b23.518.2 (5)/
b33.518.2 (5)/

Detailed parameters of yarns for samples

Sample codeMeasured warp and weft density (·10 cm−1)
WarpGround weftBrocading weft/SirongBrocading weft/gilt paper filé
A11420295.0150.0147.0
A21420290.0.148.5146.5
A31420302.0149.0147.5
B11420315.0155.5156.0
B21420310.0152.5153.5
B31420320.0157.5156.5
a11420304.0/
a21420299.0/
a31420307.0/
b11420333.5/
b21420322.5/
b31420335.0/

Test results of permeability

Sample codeAir permeabilityMoisture permeability
Mean air permeability (mm/s)Water-vapour transmission rate [g/(m2·d)]
A1321.50±98.510780
A2327.50±101.510480
A3323.50±91.511270
B1122.40±57.611170
B2129.55±62.4510180
B3115.25±53.7511220
a115011910
a215411040
a314312270
b113711840
b214310670
b313412570
DOI: https://doi.org/10.2478/ftee-2022-0033 | Journal eISSN: 2300-7354 | Journal ISSN: 1230-3666
Language: English
Page range: 9 - 20
Published on: Dec 11, 2022
Published by: Łukasiewicz Research Network, Institute of Biopolymers and Chemical Fibres
In partnership with: Paradigm Publishing Services
Publication frequency: Volume open

© 2022 Ying Sun, Zheng Liu, Jeffrey Silberman, Jue Hou, Jian Dai, published by Łukasiewicz Research Network, Institute of Biopolymers and Chemical Fibres
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0 License.