Fig. 1
Schematic diagrams of subdivided varieties of Zhaunghua. Figures (a), (b) and (f) are in the collection of the Nanjing Yun Brocade Research Institute, Nanjing 210000, China. Figures (d) and (e) are in the collection of the Palace Museum, Beijing 100000, China. Figure (c) is a reproduction from the book Nanjing Yun Brocade (Dai J, 2009)
Fig. 2
(a) Portrait of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty in Zhuanghua satin, (b) portrait of Empress Xiaocheng, wife of emperor Kangxi, in Zhuanghua satin. Source: The Palace Museum, Beijing 100000, China
Fig. 3
(a) structural model of lamella, (b) structural model of filé
Fig. 4
(a) Zhuanghua satin woven with gilt paper lamella (gold-inclusive rate of gold foil is 99%). (b) Zhuanghua satin woven with gilt paper filé (gold-inclusive rate of gold foil is 99%). (c) Zhuanghua satin woven with alloyed paper lamella. (d) Zhuanghua satin woven with filé composed of a lamella of polyester material. Source: Nanjing Shengshijinxiu Brocade Weaving Limited Company, Nanjing 210049, China
Fig. 5
(a) physical image of peacock feather thread, (b) enlarged image of peacock feather thread, (c) Zhuanghua satin with peacock feather thread. Source: Nanjing Shengshijinxiu Brocade Weaving Limited Company, Nanjing 210049, China
Fig. 6
(a) Fabric weave of Kuduan, (b) fabric weave of Zhijin & Kuduan, (c) fabric weave of Zhijin & Kujin, (d) fabric weave of Zhuanghua satin
□: Weft interlacing point. ▪: Warp interlacing point. ▴: Binding warp interlacing point
Fig. 7
(a) Schematic diagrams of small drawloom, Source: Tiangong Kaiwu, Ming dynasty, 1368–1644 AD (Song YX, 1637), (b) large drawloom, Source: The Nanjing Yun Brocade Research Institute, Nanjing 210000, China
Table 1
Detailed Parameters of Yarns
| Sample code | Measured yarn fineness/tex | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Warp | Ground weft | Brocading weft/Sirong | Brocading weft/gilt paper filé | |
| A1 | 3.5 | 29.5 (7) | 41±0.5 | 56 (2) |
| A2 | 3.5 | 29.5 (7) | 41±0.5 | 56 (2) |
| A3 | 3.5 | 29.5 (7) | 41±0.5 | 56 (2) |
| B1 | 3.5 | 18.2 (5) | 41±0.5 | 56 (2) |
| B2 | 3.5 | 18.2 (5) | 41±0.5 | 56 (2) |
| B3 | 3.5 | 18.2 (5) | 41±0.5 | 56 (2) |
| a1 | 3.5 | 29.5 (7) | / | |
| a2 | 3.5 | 29.5 (7) | / | |
| a3 | 3.5 | 29.5 (7) | / | |
| b1 | 3.5 | 18.2 (5) | / | |
| b2 | 3.5 | 18.2 (5) | / | |
| b3 | 3.5 | 18.2 (5) | / | |
Fig. 8
(a) Fabric weave of plain satin, (b) fabric weave of Zhuanghua satin
Table 2
Detailed parameters of yarns for samples
| Sample code | Measured warp and weft density (·10 cm−1) | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Warp | Ground weft | Brocading weft/Sirong | Brocading weft/gilt paper filé | |
| A1 | 1420 | 295.0 | 150.0 | 147.0 |
| A2 | 1420 | 290.0. | 148.5 | 146.5 |
| A3 | 1420 | 302.0 | 149.0 | 147.5 |
| B1 | 1420 | 315.0 | 155.5 | 156.0 |
| B2 | 1420 | 310.0 | 152.5 | 153.5 |
| B3 | 1420 | 320.0 | 157.5 | 156.5 |
| a1 | 1420 | 304.0 | / | |
| a2 | 1420 | 299.0 | / | |
| a3 | 1420 | 307.0 | / | |
| b1 | 1420 | 333.5 | / | |
| b2 | 1420 | 322.5 | / | |
| b3 | 1420 | 335.0 | / | |
Table 3
Detailed parameters of samples
| Sample code | Weight of fabric (g m−2) | Thickness (mm) |
|---|---|---|
| A1 | 241.8 | 0.41±0.12 |
| A2 | 238.2 | 0.39±0.10 |
| A3 | 243.6 | 0.42±0.13 |
| B1 | 292.7 | 0.57±0.37 |
| B2 | 288.3 | 0.52±0.31 |
| B3 | 295.1 | 0.58±0.35 |
| a1 | 134.6 | 0.35 |
| a2 | 132.1 | 0.34 |
| a3 | 135.2 | 0.36 |
| b1 | 116.9 | 0.22 |
| b2 | 113.8 | 0.22 |
| b3 | 117.3 | 0.23 |
Table 4
Test results of permeability
| Sample code | Air permeability | Moisture permeability |
|---|---|---|
| Mean air permeability (mm/s) | Water-vapour transmission rate [g/(m2·d)] | |
| A1 | 321.50±98.5 | 10780 |
| A2 | 327.50±101.5 | 10480 |
| A3 | 323.50±91.5 | 11270 |
| B1 | 122.40±57.6 | 11170 |
| B2 | 129.55±62.45 | 10180 |
| B3 | 115.25±53.75 | 11220 |
| a1 | 150 | 11910 |
| a2 | 154 | 11040 |
| a3 | 143 | 12270 |
| b1 | 137 | 11840 |
| b2 | 143 | 10670 |
| b3 | 134 | 12570 |
Fig. 9
Moisture permeability and air permeability of samples
Table 5
Test results of shape preservation property
| Samples code | Stretch resilience | Crease recovery property | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Breaking force (N) | Elongation at break (%) | Crease recovery angle (°) | ||||
| Warp direction | Weft direction | Warp direction | Weft direction | Warp direction | Weft direction | |
| A1 | 954.3 | 1628.4 | 20.0 | 14.7 | 114.8 | 79.2 |
| A2 | 946.2 | 1623.7 | 20.5 | 12.2 | 111.8 | 71.4 |
| A3 | 974.5 | 1644.0 | 20.1 | 13.9 | 116.7 | 82.5 |
| B1 | 965.2 | 1721.2 | 20.2 | 10.3 | 97.8 | 89.2 |
| B2 | 936.8 | 1718.3 | 19.9 | 12.5 | 91.0 | 87.0 |
| B3 | 984.9 | 1759.7 | 21.1 | 9.9 | 96.8 | 91.4 |
| a1 | 1021.3 | 1860.2 | 22.9 | 7.7 | 91.2 | 108.8 |
| a2 | 1003.4 | 1821.1 | 23.8 | 10.0 | 87.4 | 107.6 |
| a3 | 1063.6 | 1871.4 | 24.5 | 10.8 | 93.8 | 114.0 |
| b1 | 1019.7 | 1738.7 | 22.4 | 9.4 | 93.5 | 113.8 |
| b2 | 996.9 | 1711.4 | 21.4 | 9.5 | 92.7 | 111.9 |
| b3 | 1025.4 | 1744.6 | 23.1 | 11.0 | 93.5 | 119.9 |
Fig. 10
Stretching resilience and crease recovery property of samples, (a) breaking force of samples, (b) elongation at break of samples, (c) crease recovery angle of samples
Fig. 11
Stiffness, anti-fuzzing property and anti-pilling property of samples. (a) flexural rigidity of samples, (b) grade of anti-fuzzing and anti-pilling
Table 6
Test results of appearance preservation property
| Samples code | Bending behaviour | Anti-fuzzing and anti-pilling resistance | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Flexural rigidity | Anti-fuzzing grade | Anti-pilling grade | ||
| Warp direction | Weft direction | |||
| A1 | 32.8 | 432 | 1.5 | 3.5 |
| A2 | 31.0 | 421 | 2.0 | 3.5 |
| A3 | 37.0 | 498 | 1.5 | 3.5 |
| B1 | 77.0 | 616 | 2.0 | 3.0 |
| B2 | 72.0 | 577 | 2.0 | 3.0 |
| B3 | 79.0 | 629 | 2.5 | 3.0 |
| a1 | 26.0 | 102 | 1.0 | 1.5 |
| a2 | 24.0 | 97 | 1.0 | 1.0 |
| a3 | 39.0 | 125 | 1.0 | 1.5 |
| b1 | 37.0 | 68 | 1.0 | 1.5 |
| b2 | 31.0 | 65 | 1.0 | 1.0 |
| b3 | 45.0 | 70 | 1.0 | 1.0 |