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Wave-Induced Sediment Motion Beyond the Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland) Cover

Wave-Induced Sediment Motion Beyond the Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland)

Open Access
|Dec 2015

Abstract

The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of a natural sandy shore located near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly by breaking. The main field data comprise offshore wave parameters and three cross-shore bathymetric profiles. Waveinduced nearbed velocities and bed shear stresses are theoretically modelled for weak, moderate, strong and extreme storm conditions to determine sediment motion regimes at various locations on the seaward boundary of the surf zone. The paper contains a discussion on the depth of closure concept, according to which the offshore range of sea bottom changes can be determined by the extreme seasonal deep-water wave parameters.

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1515/heem-2015-0017 | Journal eISSN: 2300-8687 | Journal ISSN: 1231-3726
Language: English
Page range: 27 - 39
Submitted on: Apr 3, 2015
Accepted on: Jun 29, 2015
Published on: Dec 1, 2015
Published by: Polish Academy of Sciences, Institute of Hydro-Engineering
In partnership with: Paradigm Publishing Services
Publication frequency: 2 issues per year

© 2015 Grzegorz R. Cerkowniak, Rafał Ostrowski, Magdalena Stella, published by Polish Academy of Sciences, Institute of Hydro-Engineering
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 3.0 License.