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            <title><![CDATA[Natalism as a Nationalist Biopolitical Response from Socialism Till Today in Hungary]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2023-0008</link>
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            <pubDate>Mon, 30 Oct 2023 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[After the Second World War, the population policies of the socialist countries were not free from the dilemma of natalist/anti-natalist policies. This essay focuses on the Hungarian population policy discourses of the Kádár era and the present day, with some references to Central European specificities. The fear of the disappearance of Hungarians has been present in Hungarian intellectual discourse for several centuries, and by the twentieth century, it had become a fundamental idea that reached society as a whole. Given the growing interest (not independently of contemporary trends) in the international sociological literature not only in the transformation of biopolitics in recent decades but also in the historical antecedents of earlier periods, I believe that it may be interesting to examine the fear of national death in both a Hungarian and a Central European context.]]></description>
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        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[A Sociological Panorama after the Great War. A Central and Eastern European Comparatist Attempt]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2023-0001</link>
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            <pubDate>Mon, 30 Oct 2023 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[This article attempts to draw a general outline of comparative Central and Eastern European sociology. It focuses on the year 1918, when the Great War ended, and it explores the background and continuation of the (re)birth of sociology. The study is justified by the fact that the history of the national schools of sociology has been approached in correlation with Western centres, and therefore a regional approach is needed. First, the study differentiates between countries that were allied to the victorious powers in the First World War and countries that lost the war, between countries where sociology gained momentum and countries where science suffered. In the countries that were at an advantage – Czechoslovakia, Poland, Romania, and Serbia –, sociology was at very different stages of institutionalization, but it registered significant progress until the 30s. The countries that lost – Bulgaria, Russia, and Hungary – were not only more weakened after the war but also plagued by revolutions, civil wars, and retaliations; they were not a fertile ground for sociological production. Apart from Russia, it is only in the 1930s that sociology started to considerably develop in these countries. The article does not only compare the status of sociology in the seven countries, but it also explores the evolution of the relationships between them. After an understandable dependence on the Western academic centres, there was the possibility for a regional identity to form.]]></description>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
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        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Influencer Agencies: The Institutionalization of the Digital Attention Economy]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2023-0010</link>
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            <pubDate>Mon, 30 Oct 2023 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[In Lippmann’s media interpretation, attention plays a central role. Already at the beginning of the 20th century, the author realizes that to understand the operational characteristics of mass media, it is essential to learn about the nature of consumer attention. Lippmann was one of the first researchers to discover that without examining attention, we cannot understand  the  patterns  of  persuasion  or  political,  social,  and  cultural influence, and the peculiarities of media economy. Thus, in his work Public Opinion, published in 1922, he devoted a distinct chapter, entitled Time and Attention, to this topic. Lippmann’s legacy lives on with us in this sense as well. With the advent of digital media, new possibilities for exploiting attention appeared, and tracking the characteristics and changes of these is also of great importance in contemporary media research. The following study focuses on the institutionalization of the digital attention economy, and within it deals with influencer agencies as the newest segment of the media and cultural industry.]]></description>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Conflict and Cooperation within the Monographic Collective]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2023-0002</link>
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            <pubDate>Mon, 30 Oct 2023 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[This research is intended as an in-depth study of the contexts favouring the development of organizational and scientific cooperation practices, as well as of the contexts favouring the emergence of organizational competition and conflict practices within the Gustian School. I will follow how the respective practices emerged and consolidated within the abovementioned sociological school. I will also discuss the organizational climate and how internal conflicts were managed in the school. Using this approach, I intend to explore and elaborate upon the directions already inaugurated by Zoltán Rostás in his research on the organizational development of the Gustian School.]]></description>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[The Peculiarity of Sociographic Knowledge in Hungary]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2023-0006</link>
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            <pubDate>Mon, 30 Oct 2023 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Hungarian sociography describes society and social problems in an easily understandable way. Sociographic writings do not neglect the political purpose, which creates a specific knowledge about the society within a limited public. Despite the heterogeneity of the genre, the central element of sociographic work is the critique of the dysfunctionality of the existing social system, urging social change. Sociography has not had the conditions to become a science. It remained an area on the border of politics – science – literature. All three at once; however, neither of them. The problem of the institutionalization of sociography means that its importance can be determined through the examination of its task.Burawoy’s theory on public sociology argues that the knowledge of society expressed in scientific language needs to be adapted to the common language. Based on the characteristics of Hungarian sociography, the main goal is to adapt Burawoy’s approach on public sociology to sociography. This article presents the peculiarities of Hungarian sociographic knowledge production and transmission during the 20th century and attempts to place sociography in Burawoy’s system.]]></description>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[The “Matilda Effect”: Women in Interwar Romanian Sociological Research and Social Intervention]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2023-0003</link>
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            <pubDate>Mon, 30 Oct 2023 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[In the late 1920s and throughout the 1930s, several sociological monographic campaigns were carried out in a few villages in Romania. It was for the first time that a large research group from Romania investigated rural social life using an integrated theoretical system and interdisciplinary methods and instruments. In the second half of the 1930s, a different kind of rural-oriented endeavour started to be undertaken: the “royal voluntary student teams”, whose work in Romanian villages was more oriented towards social action than social research. In October 1938, the Law of the Social Service was issued, providing that all of Romania’s university graduates were compelled to participate in organized cultural work in villages. In most of the activities undertaken by the Bucharest Sociological School and coordinated by Professor Dimitrie Gusti, women participated in large numbers – yet another new feature in Romanian scientific practice. In this paper, I explore how gender, conceptualized as a social, political, and material category, configures power relations within a research group, and I provide tentative and inherently partial answers to such questions as: What combination of social, economic, and political factors led to women’s massive involvement in the sociological monographic campaigns? How did women’s participation contribute to the research endeavours? What are the disciplinary and institutional mechanisms and personal strategies that produced women’s inclusion in, and later exclusion from, the research group?]]></description>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
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        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[The Reorganization of Hungarian Sociology after the 1956 Revolution]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2023-0007</link>
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            <pubDate>Mon, 30 Oct 2023 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[The history of Hungarian sociology in the state-socialist period can certainly be described in terms of a general Central and Eastern Europe (CEE) historical model, the most important feature of which is the undivided power of the Communist Party. Under such conditions, the Soviet Union and local political power holders had a direct influence on the institutionalization and  functioning  of  sciences,  including  sociology.  The  study  contributes to understanding the social impact of the 1956 revolution, particularly its crushing effect on the development of Hungarian sociology in relation to the general model. Firstly, the early development of sociology in the Soviet Union and most state-socialist countries in the 1950s was blocked in Hungary by the 1956 revolution. The trauma of the 1956 revolution made all groups of society, including the intelligentsia, realize that the system could not be changed in the long term. At the same time, it made it clear to the political authorities that the system could not be maintained in the long run with methods of the past. As a result, Kádár’s consolidation relied heavily on a compromising intelligentsia, needed for its expertise (in this case, modern sociological expertise) and legitimizing the system. Consequently, sociology in Hungary started developing and became institutionalized in the early 1960s. In this situation, sociology represented both a critical point of view opposing the system and, at the same time, a tool of its – covert or overt – legitimation.]]></description>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[The Gusti Cooperative. Two Decades of Social History Experiments]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2023-0004</link>
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            <pubDate>Mon, 30 Oct 2023 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[This text outlines the journey and achievements of the Gusti Cooperative, a research group with deep roots in the work of Professor Zoltán Rostás in the field of oral history. Established in the early 2000s, the Cooperative emerged from Rostás’s initiative to offer an alternative and complementary history of the Sociological School of Bucharest. Comprising Rostás, his Ph.D. students, and a network of friends, the Cooperative primarily focuses on social history and the history of Romanian sociology. Their work revolves around oral history interviews, documentation, and the publication of otherwise inaccessible documents from the interwar period. Despite maintaining an informal status and lacking a conventional organizational structure, the Cooperative has made significant contributions to the field of Romanian sociological research over the past two decades. Their most notable work involves the retrieval and publication of forgotten pages from the history of Romanian sociology, including anthologies, correspondences, and unpublished documents.]]></description>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Levente Székedi: Limitele Supravieţuirii – sociologia maghiară din Transilvania după 1945 [Limits of Survival – Hungarian Sociology in Transylvania after 1945]]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2023-0009</link>
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            <pubDate>Mon, 30 Oct 2023 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[“Hungarian Supremacy Cannot Be Debated”. Hungarian Conservative Sociologists on the Nationalities Question (1908–1918)]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2023-0005</link>
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            <pubDate>Mon, 30 Oct 2023 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[Magyar Társadalomtudományi Szemle (MTSZ), i.e. Hungarian Review of Social Sciences, was published between 1908 and 1918, and it was  the  highest-toned  journal  of  contemporary  Hungarian  conservative sociology. At that time, in the last years of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, one of the most pressing social issues was the nationalities question: what rights belong to non-Hungarian-speaking nationalities living in the territory of the Kingdom of Hungary? This question was answered by two schools of tender-aged Hungarian social science. In general, liberal-left sociologists following Western scientific patterns believed that the language and cultural rights of national minorities need to be expanded. Conservatives, on the other hand, called for a restrictive policy to maintain the territorial integrity of the Kingdom of Hungary. The analysis of the authors and writings in favour of the extension of rights has been completed (Litván 1978, 2006; Litván–Szücs 1973).  Conservative  sociologists  who  support  the  restriction,  however, have so far received almost no attention in the history of sociology. In this writing, I would like to fill this gap. After the short institutional presentation of contemporary conservative sociology, I will focus on their central journal, MTSZ. I will analyse the articles in which the authors have taken a position on the nationalities question. I argue that the articles published in the MTSZ have primarily addressed the nationalities question as a political and demographic issue. Therefore, I will describe these two types of writing. (Beyond that, some articles focused on social theory, culture, or education when writing about the rights of non-Hungarian-speaking minorities.) My basic question is how those aspects of the nationalities question appeared in MTSZ and how those all create a specific political store of knowledge. If we get answers to this, not only will we shed light on one of the forgotten but exciting schools of early Central European social science, but perhaps the history of the first quarter of the 20th century will also be better understood.]]></description>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[New Rules of Fashion: “We Must Forget Everything That We Know about the Industry”]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2022-0011</link>
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            <pubDate>Wed, 16 Nov 2022 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Book Review: Anna Keszeg: Redesigining Fashion. Media Operations of Contemporary Fashion /Case studies/ Budapest: Metropolitan University of Budapest, METU Theory 3, 2022]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2022-0009</link>
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            <pubDate>Wed, 16 Nov 2022 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Book Review: Laura Nistor: Fashion: A Phenomenon of Consumption and Communication. Studies among Youngsters in Romania Cluj-Napoca: Presa Universitară Clujeană, 2020]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2022-0010</link>
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            <pubDate>Wed, 16 Nov 2022 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Exhausting Beauties, Fashion Faux Pas, and Sartorial Rights. How Fashion Shaped the Self-definition of Gen X, Y, Z? A Case Study of Euphoria, Girls, and Sex and the City]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2022-0004</link>
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            <pubDate>Wed, 16 Nov 2022 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[The article focuses on fashion consumption patterns emerging from prominent TV series that have created generational fandoms. Three series (Sex and the City, Girls, and Euphoria) representing the three most important generations (Gen X, Gen Y, Gen Z) present in contemporary US society and global popular culture highlight the most mainstream contemporary fashion attitudes. Based on a deductive approach-based thematic analysis with focus on the semantic role of the dress played in the visual narrative, the research considers how fashion is used in building characters and their fashion- and clothing-culture-related values. The analysis concludes that the most important features of the generational fashion attitudes are as follows: materialist individualism for generation X, irony and anti-fashion for generation Y, and psychological coping mechanism for generation Z.]]></description>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[The Digital Brand Identity of Fast-Fashion Brand Zara. A Case Study]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2022-0007</link>
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            <pubDate>Wed, 16 Nov 2022 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[The research presented in this paper examined the structure and consistency of the digital brand identity of the fast-fashion brand Zara. The research was based on the content analysis of Zara’s brand page, the website of Zara’s owner Inditex, and Zara’s Instagram page. The analysis of Zara’s digital brand identity was divided into two parts: on the one hand, the communicative aspects of the brand site and the Instagram page were examined to verify the conditions of the digital brand experience, and, on the other hand, the structure and consistency of the brand identity on all three digital platforms were considered. Among the brand identity elements, mission, values, personality, and offers were present on all three digital platforms, while the competence element was mostly absent. This gap calls into question the credibility of the brand identity, which in turn makes it difficult for Zara to become a strong brand. Zara’s digital brand identity has proven to be consistent towards customers but incomplete towards employees and other stakeholders.]]></description>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Liquid Wardrobes and Sensing: A Phenomenological Approach to Digital Perfume Communities]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2022-0006</link>
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            <pubDate>Wed, 16 Nov 2022 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[The fact that perfumes have been regarded as enhancing one’s appearance opens up questions about knowing and wearing fragrances. The connections between fragrances and fashion are being reviewed first according to the notion of embodiment as applied to the understanding of clothing fashion (Entwistle 2000, 2015); then, the lens of “mediatization”, as applied by Rocamora (2017) to grasp the contemporary entanglement of fashion and digital media, further serves to turn to digital perfume communities. These constitute an essential resource to the extent that they share experiences while producing data about wearing and collecting fragrances. By tracing the recent insurgence of perfume criticism and by mapping certain techniques of entering into relation with fragrances through community members’ perfume reviews as well, the study argues that their idiosyncratic and often artistic language is countering the impersonal language of perfume advertising; ultimately, the study suggests unravelling perfume consumption patterns via an aesthetics of attention.]]></description>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[The Legacy of Katharine Hamnett’s T-shirts. Fashion as Activism]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2022-0003</link>
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            <pubDate>Wed, 16 Nov 2022 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[For a long time, fashion was only a novelty, an aesthetic pleasure, a means of individual self-expression, a possession (Veblen 1899), and a means of separation (Simmel 1904). In the last more than thirty years, following a change of attitude, fashion has also become interpretable as a medium of social activism. It no longer seeks to shape only wearable products and the style of their wearers but also the world (Fuad-Luke 2009). This essay interprets the career of British fashion designer Katharine Hamnett and her 1984 media scandal as the starting point for a shift in attitude, when fashion and social engagement became organically linked and dress became a means of bringing social and ecological issues into focus, beyond itself. Drawing on case studies, the essay explores the changing narrative around clothes, raising current issues such as the importance of using organic cotton as a raw material, the role of the active citizen, the limits of growth, or the meanings constructed by marketing. Although Hamnett’s work has received undeservedly little discussion, she has an undeniably important role to play in changing this narrative. Today, thanks to her activist design, social responsibility has become a fundamental principle in branding. We can never talk about fashion in the same way as before Hamnett.]]></description>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Changing Landscapes but Ingrained Power Relations? The Green Promise of the COVID-19 Pandemic, the (Un)sustainability of the Fashion Industry, and the Central-Eastern European Production Background]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2022-0001</link>
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            <pubDate>Wed, 16 Nov 2022 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[The COVID-19 pandemic turned the spotlight on the inequalities and the vulnerability of the global supply chains. It showed the serious dependency and the asymmetrical power relations among the stakeholders of the fashion industry. The relocation tendencies – as fashion brands are trying to break up with Asia and move production closer – have already started, and the pandemic can give a boost to it. The Central-Eastern European region can be a possible destination. The shorter supply chains are not just a tool for resilience but are told to serve sustainability as well. My hypothesis is that even though the geography of fashion industry is changing, power relations are not, and the crisis caused by the coronavirus pandemic has even increased dependency among the different players. Power relations are important among the region’s production and the clients if relocation is to work out, as there is need for inclusive, fair, and decent employment, which is rarely guaranteed by fashion brands. Without it, sustainability cannot be achieved. In this paper, I focus on the examination of socio-economic processes in contemporary fashion such as the relocation tendencies and the power relations among the stakeholders, mainly fashion brands and production companies as subcontractors of the fashion industry. Especially, I examine profit and risk as factors within the relations. The critical essay uses literature review and document analysis to investigate a possible change in the current role of power relations and to examine the hypothesis.]]></description>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
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        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[The Per(ver)formative Aspects of Pandemic Fashion Performances: Moschino’s Deconstructive Marionettes]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2022-0005</link>
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            <pubDate>Wed, 16 Nov 2022 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[It is said that due to the social and economic effects of the recent pandemic, fashion has been caught in a destructive position. One aspect is the material change of the fashion objects and the strong pre-eminence of the so-called “stay-at-home collections” against the earlier dominance of the ready-to-wear and haute couture garments intended for social events. An important feature of recent fashion changes is their reliance on current pandemic rules and the related political decisions. In my presentation, I will focus on an interesting example of these pandemic changes: Moschino’s 2021 Spring/Summer Collection. Moschino’s “Marionette Performance” is a perfect example for infelicitous performativity where the show is created in a per(ver)formative (in the Derridean sense) act in the catwalk space. I intend to show that performativity is broken at every step of the show. In this spring collection, not only are the mannequins substituted by dolls but the viewers – some are well known (e.g. Anna Wintour) – are also transformed into marionettes by Jeremy Scott. With a self-ironic gesture, anyone of us from the possible audience can be changed into a puppet. To analyse the performative character of the show, I use deconstructive approaches and ideas. I wish to emphasize the interweaving performative dimensions that, in a sense, preclude each other with the help of Paul de Man’s interpretation of Kleist’s Über das Marionettentheater. I want to point out the mechanical, meaningless materiality appearing in the marionettes’ movements on Moschino’s special catwalk. My lecture argues that in the movements of the marionettes the possibility of the clear manifestation of performativity becomes uncertain.]]></description>
            <category>ARTICLE</category>
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        <item>
            <title><![CDATA[Attitudes towards Sustainable Fashion in Romania]]></title>
            <link>https://reference-global.com/article/10.2478/aussoc-2022-0002</link>
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            <pubDate>Wed, 16 Nov 2022 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate>
            <description><![CDATA[The present study is an attempt at mapping the Romanian society’s attitudes towards sustainable fashion. Our analyses are based on the European Commission Eurobarometer 92.4 (2019) data relevant for Romania. We have looked into ten Likert-type variables focused on consumer attitudes regarding sustainable fashion. As a first step, we created a sustainable-fashion attitude scale, followed by an exploratory factor analysis (EFA) aimed at investigating the inner structure of the variables. Thereafter, we employed a linear regression analysis in a bid to answer the question as to which are the variables that account for commitment to sustainable fashion in Romania. Inter alia, our results suggest that positive attitudes towards sustainable fashion are most enhanced by awareness about environmental issues and sensitivity to environmental protection in general and are weakened most significantly by poor financial situation measured in terms of difficulty in paying the bills.Besides gathering information on environmental protection from traditional media (the press), relying on Internet sources in this respect also increases support for the transition to a more environmentally conscious textile industry. Our analysis touches upon research limitations such as the attitude–action gap.]]></description>
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